General Conditions: As of the week of May 5th, the death slabs approach is clear of snow, though a little wet with running water on the upper slabs. Fixed ropes were present on the approach (see Climbing Regulations). Each of the locations with fixed lines have two ropes, one rope with knots, and one without. At the base there is some snow, the ground is really wet, and the spring is flowing and looking great. The route itself is dry and in perfect climbing condition. It was a little windy and cool, even after the sun hit it in the afternoon. Some of the tat that is normally up there and perhaps expected by people who have climbed it recently is gone, most notably the tat that hung off of the pin at the top of the last bolt ladder. Depending on your height or ability, it’s a long reach, a hard free move, or a creative lasso at this point. The descent back to the base of the route has some snow, but does not obscure the trail. The Half Dome cables are up for the season! This is a little earlier than normal, so expect to see many people at the top and on the cables.
Throughout the day I ran into four teams who camped at the base before they climbed the route. Of these teams I saw one with a bear canister and a permit! A-Plus to the team from Canada and England! It’s getting busy up there, and bears have recently been active at the base of the RNF. If your team is thinking of camping at the base take the time to get a free wilderness permit from the wilderness center in Yosemite Valley and get a bear canister for $5 for the week. This is how we can protect wildlife from our food, and prevent problems for climbers throughout the season.
I saw a lot of trash on this route. Lost or abandoned water bottles and wrappers are stuck in cracks, left on ledges or dropped down holes (top of the second zig zag). Pack it in, pack it out! And if you can, pack out more than you pack in.
