SCENARIO
The climbers involved have requested we use pseudonyms to protect their privacy.
On March 4, 2021 two climbers, Jeff and Erin, climbed Munginella (5.6) to Selaginella (5.8) on the Five Open Books area near Yosemite Falls. Near the top of Selaginella Jeff got off route. He broke a hold and took approximately a 50 foot fall. During the fall Jeff struck a ledge with both of his feet, resulting in a fracture in the right ankle and severe bone contusion (bruising) in the left heel. Jeff was able to finish the lead, belay Erin to the top, and crawl up to the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail where YOSAR was contacted to assist with a carry out down the Yosemite Falls trail.
BACKGROUND
Jeff and Erin are both experienced rock climbers who were climbing within their ability that day. Jeff was the more experienced traditional climber of the two and led all of the pitches on Selaginella, while Erin led all the pitches on Munginella. Jeff had forgotten his helmet at home and made the decision to continue with their plan for the day, stating “it is was a casual enough day and well within the parties limits.”
THE ACCIDENT
On the final pitch of Selaginella (Pitch 4), Jeff was attempting to move faster and place gear in such a manner to make it easier for Erin, as she was uncharacteristically struggling that day. Near the top of the pitch, Jeff became disoriented above a slab section where he was unable to place gear. He ended up on a small ledge and placed a single 0.4 Black Diamond cam that he did not feel completely certain about. Jeff looked to the left and saw a gully area and remembered a photograph on Mountain Project that he believed said “not the way to end the climb”. He also remembered some verbiage about an alternate “flake” finish to the climb. Although Jeff thought he remembered the topo continuing left towards the area he remembered in the photograph, he began looking around for the alternate finish. Jeff and Erin were unable to see or hear each other because the climb wandered around the corner to the left and there was a waterfall making it impossible to hear each other.
The Supertopo mentions “tricky routefinding”
Above Jeff was a flake line that appeared delicate (potato chips), but easy. He began climbing these right angling flakes, unable to find suitable protection but finding the climbing easy (5.6). Approximately 15 feet above the ledge, Jeff started to search for protection, as he was relying on his questionable .4 cam below him. He remembered the route description saying the protection just below the anchor was sparse to non-existent, but the climbing easy, which seemed to add up. Jeff stopped momentarily and stepped onto a dirt patch behind a flake and it flexed underneath his weight and became nervous about protection and paused, contemplated down climbing. After looking above and seeing the climbing became even easier (5.4), He continued another 15 feet where they found an improbable looking slab section approximately 4-5 feet from the trees that define the top of Selaginella. This by no means matched any of the route description Jeff had read. Jeff was not as comfortable with slab climbing and recognized the last piece of protection was approximately 20-30 feet below him. He made the decision to downclimb back to the ledge and while doing so a flake pulled off as he tested it. Jeff lost his balance and fell. He believes he struck the small ledge at the 0.4 cam with both feet and continued to fall, approximately 50 feet in total. Jeff was able to climb back to the 0.4 cam that arrested his fall. He then continued to climb to the top, this time going left and recognized it as the correct route which matched the route description and the rating.
THE RESCUE
Remarkably, Jeff was able to finish the climb and bring up his partner. Upon finishing the route they contacted Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) to receive assistance with the hike down. Their ability to make it to the top of the climb greatly expedited the response time of YOSAR and exposure to risk for the rescue team and climbers.
TAKE AWAYS
Don’t Rely on Mountain Project
Mountain Project can be useful. However, it is full of subjective information which can be misleading and incorrect. Topos are often more reliable and contain more objective information about the climb. Jeff realized that the overload of information made it more difficult for him to remember what the topo showed. Take photos of the topos in addition to having mountain project beta.
Wear a Helmet
Jeff was not wearing a helmet on the day of the accident; Fortunately he did not sustain any head injuries. After completing Munginella, Jeff and Erin could have taken the lower walk off rather than continuing up Selaginella. The five open books area is extremely popular with a lot of loose rock above the climbs. It is highly recommended to wear a helmet in this area. Even when you are climbing well within your ability, accidents happen.
Trust your Gut!
How many times have you tried to convince yourself you were on route but knew something was off? Jeff thought he remembered the route going left but then started to doubt his gut feeling. When you are climbing a popular route and something feels off, listen to that feeling and take the time to make the best decision.