Scenario
On April 13th, 2021, Yosemite Search and Rescue responded to a rope-soloist who had fallen and injured himself while climbing the second pitch of After Six (5.7), on Manure Pile Buttress. The rope-soloist fell while leading and self-belaying on the second pitch, taking a large pendulum fall and injuring himself. He began to self rescue and attempted to lower himself to the ground. However, during the fall he injured his neck and determined calling YOSAR was the wisest choice.
Background
It is reported that the rope soloist had come to Yosemite to climb, intending originally to climb with another partner. He appeared to be an experienced climber in his mid-fifties, but claimed to have trouble finding new partners due to his age. Unable to find a partner, he decided to rope-solo a relatively easy 5.7 route on Manure Pile Buttress called After Six.
The Accident
To start the route, the rope-soloist initially scrambled up a 3rd class ledge to the rightof the first pitch, as the first pitch of After Six is often very slick. From there he set his first anchor and began rope-solo climbing, belaying himself as he climbed. It is unclear exactly what self-belay system he was using.
While climbing the second pitch, he slipped and fell, taking a large pendulum fall and hitting the wall again, injuring his neck. From this point, he attempted to self-rescue and lower himself to the ground, but was in too much pain to do so and instead opted to call Yosemite Search and Rescue to assist.
The approximate location of the fall is marked with a red X, and rescuer can be seen with the patient by the red arrow. The yellow ledge is the 3rd class ledge used to approach the base of the second pitch.
The Rescue
Within approximately 1 hour of the incident, Yosemite Search and Rescue arrived on scene and began operations. The first part of the rescue involved a Search and Rescue (SAR) team member scrambling up the 3rd class ledge to the base of the second pitch where the injury climber was located. From here, the SAR team built an anchor and proceeded to package the patient in a litter. After the patient was secured in the litter, the SAR team lowered down a rescuer with the patient to the ground, where he was carried out in a wheeled litter to El Capitan Picnic Area.
A Yosemite Search and Rescue attendant being lowered to the ground with the patient in a litter.
Take Aways
Take Extra Precautions in Low-Angle Terrain – In this case, the length and severity of the fall could have been shortened by placing extra gear. In low-angle terrain (often “easy” climbs in the 5.6-5.8 range), a leader fall of almost any length could result in hitting a ledge and potentially injury. Additionally, the risk of receiving a head or neck injury is greatly increased in low-angle terrain where a backwards fall could flip you upside down before hitting the rock. In this case, the climber was wearing a helmet. It could have been much worse of an injury if he wasn’t wearing one.
Climb With a Partner – Climbing with a partner is always a safer method. Having another un-injured person to help in the case of an accident could be the difference between being able to self-rescue, or needing to call search and rescue. Climbing alone poses the increased risk of no help in case of a solo emergency. In this case, luckily the climber had cell phone service to call. Be sure to know when and where you may have reception in case of an emergency.
Know When to Call for Help– In this scenario, the rope-soloist made the safest decision by calling for assistance. Any spine related injury should be taken seriously and if not treated properly, can result in further injury.