Zodiac is one of the greatest aid climbs on the planet and an approachable test piece for aspiring big wall climbers. Sustained A2 or C3 climbing tackles iconic features up the steep and exposed Southeast face of El Capitan.
Zodiac was first ascended solo by Charlie Porter in 1972. His ascent was the first time climbers ventured onto that side of El Capitan. Originally an A5 route of world class difficulty, over a thousand ascents and improved gear in the last 50 years have tamed the route somewhat. With only a few variations from the original line, Zodiac now even goes free at the mind-melting grade of Yosemite 5.13d. Zodiac remains a proud objective and stands as a tribute to Porter’s vision
Climbing rangers Brandon Adams and Eric Lynch patrolled the route over three days in early November 2020. The route was cleaned of unnecessary fixed placements, most of which were found to be of poor quality. Rusted and/or partially broken pitons were the most common culprits plucked from the route. Many climbers inherently trust fixed gear when in reality, the quality of fixed gear can never be guaranteed and is often less than expected. Beaks and hooks should be prioritized over copperheads as future climbers tackle the route. Two nights were spent on the route, one at the Pearly Gates and one at Peanut Ledge. Both spots provided premium opportunities for glorious hanging bivouacs.
Pitch 11 was found to be in an exceedingly dangerous state. The C2 loose section between the bolt ladders required the climbing of a loosely attached and increasingly expanding flake. One bolt to an enhanced hook was added to allow passage to the right of the dangerous flake.
A solo ascent was made soon after the patrol, and that climber reported that the route still goes at a sustained grade of A2 or C3. Zodiac is a favorite climb of many Yosemite big wall climbers, and a worthy objective for wall climbers looking at the Southeast face of El Capitan.