Nothing says summertime like slab climbing in Tuolumne Meadows. Lace up those stiff boots, believe in the less than vertical, and push till you pop. The meadows is adorned with many mystical domes creating a playground for all visitors – climbers and non-climbers alike. There is one such dome which has inspired climbers over the years to challenge themselves on its imposing granite shield, Fairview Dome.
Tuolumne Meadows magical dark art of slab climbing would not be where it is today if it were not for the prolific pioneer Bob Kamps.
…when balancing lightly on the Fariview’s impeccable granite I try to calm myself and think of Mr. Kamps dressed in a swami belt and boots and I realize, I’ve got it easy.
Bob has over 3000 first ascents to his name all across the United States. Some of his most notable accomplishments are The Diamond (the most iconic wall in Rocky Mountain National Park), The Mace (a sought after classic desert tower), and Chingadera (an impressive Tahquitz slab climbing test piece and an early 5.11). Born in Wisconsin, Kamps began his climbing in California in 1955, and was a staple at Stoney Point, Joshua Tree, the Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and Tahquitz. He was among the first of the California rock climbing pioneers to move his focus from aid climbing to free climbing. Kamps spent a lot of time in Tuolumne Meadows putting up countless routes on the impressive slabs adorning this pristine alpine landscape. Bob especially left his mark on the thousand foot face of Fairview Dome. Throughout the sixties, Kamps put up many bold lines on this impressive face: Always Arches, FFA Inverted Staircase, Fairest of All, The Great Pumpkin, and the sought after Lucky Streaks. He is truly a legend and an inspiration; when balancing lightly on the Fariview’s impeccable granite I try to calm myself and think of Mr. Kamps dressed in a swami belt and boots I realize, I’ve got it easy. This year while climbing on Fairview I have noticed some new companions sharing the cliff with us climbers – Peregrine Falcons.
Within the last few years the Park Service has noticed new Peregrine nests in the high country on Medlicott and now on Fairview Dome.
This nest has sparked a new closure on the right side of Fairview Dome. The closure includes Heart of Stone, Scavenger, Sorcerer’s Apprentice, Mr. Kamps, and Lucky Steaks. Many of these routes take bold and classic lines up the face. Though this closure may feel limiting to some, it can open our eyes to some of the newer developed lines on the North East face of the dome. Many of these routes have similar climbing with a little, just a little, less of the pucker factor.
Myself and one of the Climber Stewards went to explore one of these new routes on the left side of Fairview, The Arsonist. The route is comprised of sustained slab climbing, put up in the proud style of ground up with no fixed ropes. The Arsonist made for a great adventure. A path of dime edges, smears, and mantels takes an impressive line up the imposing wall. Just to the right of this route sits another new school classic, Captain Fairview. This also takes a new line up the North East Face, between some old possibly poorly protected test-pieces, such as Scotty Burke’s runout A Fairwell to Kings. Captain Fairview combines some classic smearing with some truly wild knob climbing and all time roof hucking.
Whether you are a slab master or just learning the low angle dance, Fairview is one of the ultimate objectives for Tuolumne Meadows. When going up there I encourage us all to welcome the falcons to the area by respecting the closures and observing these beautiful creatures from afar. Be fun and believe!
Correction. Bob never used a swami belt. He used a bowline to tie in. Much later he did use a harness.