When I close my eyes, memory shines clear. Endless rock as far as the eyes can see. Granite domes of stone – brief in the world’s geologic memory, timeless in ours. I see wild flowers in alpine meadows, rivers bubbling, the rhythmic flow of trout. Afternoon thundershowers and heroic sunsets. To a climber, Tuolumne Meadows is a high-altitude gem; a mecca of golden knobs, jagged peaks, and rising domes; awe-inspiring, unbroken wilderness; classic, run-out moderates; long approaches and alpine summits- a destination in its own.
It is also a sanctuary from the competitive edge of “The Valley”. Here in the meadows, the pace of life is a bit slower. Times and IADs transition to long scrambles, identifying wild flowers, and watching the sun’s beautiful farewell each evening. Rest days become appreciated and easier, not solely a means to an end.
We set down the rock shoes and explored the Sierras by other means this past week. Our investigation of “rest day” activities lead us high above tree line, down the narrow depths of Tenaya Canyon, and into as many swimming holes as we could find in between. Though the unique, alpine climbing is what draws climbers to Tuolumne, the Meadows is also an easy place to practice taking a rest day; stepping off the road in any direction will lead you on your own alpine adventure.
Below are two alternative outings near Tuolumne Meadows that we explored.
TENAYA CANYON
At 9a.m., we arrived at the Olmstead Point parking lot with a rope, harnesses, rappel devices, food, water, and a map of the area. We were told to park at Olmstead Point and begin our descent there so as not to miss the ruins of a plane crash in 1959. Most of the fragments were removed, however one propeller blade and a radial aircraft engine still linger. Many rumor that the canyon is haunted, and a warning sign cautions those with non-technical experience to descend via a less-technical route. Moderate route finding, loose rock, multiple rappels, and fifth-class descending are prevalent through several sections.
We began descending on the well-trodden hiker’s trail that dips below Olmstead Point and soon transitions into an obscure footpath leading to long, low-angle slabs. We hiked down the slabs and into the drainage where Tenaya Creek flows copiously in spring and early summer months. The trail was mainly cross-country, and required some tricky routefinding. The terrain inclines down and after passing the old aircraft engine, Pywiack Falls plummets in long ribbons on your left-hand side- a long tongue unfolding down steep slabs.
As you pass Pywiack Falls, the terrain levels briefly and you encounter the first of several refreshing swimming holes scattered along the journey. Small paradises that would be congested with people were they closer to a road. Continuing down the drainage reveal Yasoo Dome and Mt. Watkins, gray goliaths looming on the right, and the pristine facades of East and West Quarter Dome on the shoulder of Cloud’s Rest. In the distance looms Half Dome, marking the boundary between valley giants and alpine wilderness.
Along the pools and into the steep canyons we encountered four rappels: the first, third, and fourth being bolted anchors, and the second a slung boulder. Depending on the time of year, the second rappel may descend down a waterfall and into a pool. Bring dry bags and waterproof gear accordingly. After Mt. Watkins, we walked along the dry riverbed to where Snow Creek intersects Tenaya Creek. This trail leads to the bridge along the Mirror Lake loop, a very well traveled, large path. After a short bus ride, cold drinks and hot food await.
UNICORN PEAK
Unicorn Peak, in the Cathedral Range, is visible from many places in Tuolumne Meadows and its summit provides amazing views of Cathedral Peak, Matthes Crest, and the Meadows far below. Unicorn is a good option for an “active rest day”. The hike is relatively short and gains elevation quickly so you can spend a day in the mountains without walking too far.
Another great aspect of this outing is the trailhead is located in the campground (near the group camp in the B Loop), so you don’t even have to get in your car at all. Follow the established trail for 2.5 miles to Elizabeth Lake, nestled serenely below Unicorn. Elizabeth Lake is also a great place to catch fish, so keep that in mind if fishing is in your outdoor repertoire.
From the lake, you will see a scraggly peak to the Northeast. We meandered up the hillside through shrubbery, boulders, and slabs aiming for the saddle between Unicorn and a mound of low-angle talus to the Southeast (called Althuski). From there, we followed the ridge to the east cautiously past 4th class sections, as some of the moves are quite exposed. There is plenty of opportunity for ridge-top rambling in the Cathedral Range, so if Unicorn wasn’t enough, check out Althuski, Cockscomb, and Echo Peaks.
