Accident Report: Incorrect Leader Tie-in, Five & Dime Cliff

SCENARIO 

The climbers involved have requested we use pseudonyms to protect their privacy.

On the afternoon of June 4, 2020 two climbers, Alex and Jane, were climbing at Five & Dime cliff. They started climbing on Mockery, a bolted 5.8. Jane began leading the route. A few bolts up she asked to get lowered for unknown reasons. The climbers switched roles and Alex ascended the route to the bolted anchor. He clipped the rope through two alpine quick draws for a top rope anchor, and Jane began to lower him. As he was being lowered Alex unexpectedly fell approximately 35 feet to the ground. At around 1700, Rangers responded to a report of a climber fall at the base of Five & Dime cliff.  Medical care was provided and a low-angle evacuation was performed to transport Alex to a park ambulance. Alex was transported by ground to the hospital with significant lower body injuries.

BACKGROUND

Mockery was the first route the climbers got on that day. Although the two had climbed together before, they were not regular climbing partners. They reported that buddy checks were performed prior to beginning the climb.

During the investigation, rangers inspected the route and climbing gear. The anchor was two dyneema slings and non-lockers (shortened alpine draws) attached to the two anchor bolts at the top of the route. Rangers found a properly tied figure eight follow through knot at the anchor, but it was not attached to anything (see photos below). Rangers noted that the knot had a double fishermen’s behind it. All bolts were properly clipped to the rope with either sport draws or shortened alpine draws. The ranger performing medical care on Alex found all his buckles intact and properly secured when removing the harness. The harness generally seemed to be in good condition. The only exception was that the small non-load bearing ‘keeper loop’, located below the bottom ‘hard point’ between the two leg loops, was undone.

THE ACCIDENT

Jane reported that while lowering Alex from the anchors he asked to “Stop” or “Hold On” about halfway to the ground (approximately 35 feet). Alex appeared to be manipulating something on his harness then suddenly he fell to the ground.

The cause of the accident is believed to be an incorrect tie-in by Alex. The knot which was found in the climbing rope at the anchor was a properly tied figure eight, but it was not attached to anything. His harness was found to have no damage other than the open ‘keeper loop’ indicating the rope was threaded improperly. This suggests Alex may have been distracted while tying-in and tied the correct knot to an incorrect place on the harness. Alex may have noticed something amiss while lowering and may have been manipulating the harness when the loop came undone.

TAKE AWAYS

Check your partner:  This accident highlights the need for climbers to guard against complacency during routine procedures like tie-ins and buddy checks. The error did not reveal itself until Alex weighted the system, after having climbed the full pitch.  Alex is fortunate the accident did not occur immediately at the anchor. It is likely the error could have been caught and the accident prevented with a thorough, conscientious buddy check before the climber left the ground.

Wear a helmet: Alex was wearing a helmet and commented, “I remember my head hitting tree branches or rock on the way down and being thankful I had it on.“ It is not uncommon for climbers to not wear a helmet when climbing below their limit and especially on bolted routes. This accident highlights the importance of helmets worn even when objective hazards seem unlikely.

Avoid Distractions: Although it is unknown if the climbers were distracted, incorrect tie-ins due to distractions are not unusual.