Yosemite Valley saw multiple climbing accidents in the Spring of 2018. We have compiled these accidents into a summer round-up here.
More in-depth analysis of some of the parks other climbing accidents from this season and years past can be found in the accidents section of Yosemiteclimbing.com.
Soloist Fall – North Dome
On May 4th, 2018 at approximately 1:15 pm Yosemite dispatch received a call of a climber fall on North Dome. The reporting party was climbing the “Crest Jewel” and witnessed a soloist fall from the lower pitches of the South Face route (5.8, III). The reporting party made contact with the patient and stated the climber had fallen approximately 200 feet and sustained multiple injuries but was alive.
Since the Yosemite park helicopter was not in service yet for the season, YOSAR sent a hasty team of 3 SAR siters up the North Dome gully with basic technical gear to make contact with the patient. In the meantime, an out of park CHP helicopter was contacted to assist with a hoisting operation.
CHP helicopter approaching patient at the base of North dome
At approximately 3:00pm the helicopter landed in Ahwahnee Meadow and picked up a paramedic member of the HRT (Helicopter Rescue) team. The NPS ranger and a CHP officer were then inserted with the patient at the base of North Dome. The patient was packaged and flown back down to Ahwahnee Meadow, where he was taken by ground ambulance to a nearby hospital. The ground team as well as the HRT member descended the North Dome gully on foot.
The soloist was a male in his mid 40’s and was described as an “experienced strong climber.” A later interview with the climber found that he was onsight soloing the route and had approached via the Royal Arches. At the time of the fall the climber was off route, climbing in a corner system to the right of the standard South Face route. The climber stated that the rock was of bad quality and that the climbing was harder than it should have been for the grade, but he did not back off as he usually would have in a similar situation. He is a veteran of at least 80 onsight solo climbs of long routes in the mountains throughout the western United States.
Climber Fall – Washington Column
On June 30th, 2018 Yosemite dispatch received a call of a climber fall from the Kor Roof pitch on the South Face Route Washington Column (5.8 C1, V). The reporting party stated that the climber had an altered mental state after sustaining head injuries.
Climber’s helmet after taking a long fall from the Kor roof. The extent of injuries could have been catastrophic had he not been wearing a helmet.
Due to the nature of the reported injuries, YOSAR requested the park helicopter begin preparing for a short haul extraction. While the helicopter was preparing, a Paramedic park ranger went up to the base of Washington Column and quickly ascended fixed lines put in place by other teams on Dinner Ledge.
Upon reaching the patient and doing an assessment, it was determined that he (male mid 20’s) was alert and oriented, and was stable enough to rappel down the fixed lines with the park ranger and the rest of his team. No medical care was provided and the park helicopter was called off.
Another team of 2 Valley SAR personal were sent on foot to the base of the rappels to assist with carrying out the teams gear.
A later interview with the injured climber found that at the time of the fall he was leading the Kor Roof and back cleaning extensively to “make things easier for his follower.” He stated that he was aid climbing approximately 15-20 feet up and right of his last piece of protection (an expansion bolt with a long runner) when he fell.
The climber was concerned about using daisy chains due to the windy conditions that day and instead was using a quickdraw to clip in direct to his placements. While standing in his ladders and placing the next piece of protection, the climber felt his current placement shift. The movement caused the climber to react and lose his balance. His fall would have been arrested at the piece, but the quickdraw he was using in place of a daisy chain was either never clipped to the current piece, or unexpectedly unclipped and the climber fell almost to Dinner Ledge.
The climber also stated that while he had done multiple climbing trips to Yosemite in the past year, this was his first big wall and felt that he was using techniques that were above his skill level in that terrain.
TAKE AWAYS
Operate within your level of experience – While there are many techniques climbers use in big wall terrain to manage complex rope and rigging situations, it is important to only use things that you fully understand and feel competent with. The climber stated that he had been back cleaning the Kor Roof due to recommendations given to him by other parties on Dinner Ledge. He also stated that his partner and he were not experienced in doing big lower outs off of fixed pieces.
Wear your helmet! – This climber walked away from a huge fall with minimal injuries only because of his helmet. Without it the outcome would have potentially been catastrophic.
Multiple Ledge Outs – East Ledges Descent
East ledges descent. The blue line is the standard rappel route. The red X’s show the approximate location of failed rappels. The right most rappel is shown as “Option C” in Supertopo guidebooks
Ledge Out, June 2, 2018
On June 2nd, 2018 Yosemite dispatch received calls from climbers stranded on the East Ledges descent of El Capitan. The party had climbed the East Buttress of El Cap that day, and had taken the wrong rappel route after climbing. The route the party took was “Option C” in the Supertopo guide book. This route requires two ropes to rappel and the team only had one. Upon reaching the second rappel station, the party found a two bolt rappel station and assumed that they were at the correct location. They pulled their single line and committed to that descent. After rappelling again, it became clear that they were unable to continue with one rope, and became stranded on a ledge.
The team had cell phone service and called YOSAR. Due to the late time in the evening, they were instructed to wait on the ledge for rescue in the morning. First thing the next day, 2 SAR siters were sent to the East Ledges, and rappelled to the party. They then continued down the descent on two rope rappels and were escorted back to the Valley floor by the SAR team.
Ledge Out, June 3rd 2018
On June 3rd, 2018 Yosemite dispatch again received a call of climbers stranded on the East Ledges rappels of El Capitan. The party had climbed the East Buttress of El Cap that day, and had taken the wrong rappel route after climbing. While descending the route, the climbers found themselves following rock cairns and a faint climbing trail leading to the edge of El Capitan. At some point the team found a manzanita bush with webbing and rappel rings and began rappeling from that location. The team only had one 60m rope at the time. At the end of the first rappel the team found bolted rappel anchors on a ledge which led them to believe that they were on the standard East Ledges rappel route.
After pulling their rope, one member of the party rappelled down 30m, only to find that there were no more rappel stations on the blank face. He then prussiked back up the rope to his partner and realized that the terrain to climb back up to the rim was far beyond their ability level. After discussing options they realized that they were stuck and called YOSAR for assistance.
The next morning two SAR siters went to the East Ledges with ropes and extra jumaring equipment for the two climbers. The SAR team then gave a tutorial on how to use the equipment and had the climbers ascend a fixed line while being belayed from above. The SAR team members then assisted the climbers down the rest of the East Ledges to the Valley floor.
The climbers involved were experienced in multi-pitch climbing, but had never descended off of El Cap before. The climbers also stated that they were extremely tired at the time and rushing to get down.
TAKE AWAYS
Fatigue and rushing – The climbers told SAR personal on scene that they were tired after climbing the route, and that haste played a big factor in these incidents. Slow down and make sure to think things through at the end of the day when fatigue has set in, it is easier to make mistakes.
Rappelling into unknown terrain – While entering into unknown terrain, it is imperative to slow down and analyze your situation. If you notice that you will be unable to climb out of a situation you rappeled into, make sure that you will be able to continue down with the equipment that you have. Often times leaving gear behind and creating your own rappel station is a feasible option. Learn techniques for ascending ropes. Being able to prusik up the rope allowed the climber in the June 3rd incident to spend the night on a ledge as opposed to hanging at the end of their rope.
Inadequate gear – If you have committed to climbing with only one rope, your descent options are severely limited. If you are not familiar with a descent, consider bringing two ropes the first time.
Research – More research by these parties ahead of time might have kept them out of this situation. There is a lot if info about rappelling down the East Ledges online. Even though the guidebooks do show a number of options for rappelling this area, only one option shows the possibility of doing it with a single rope.