Climbing Steck-Salathe’- Following the Sign of the Peregrine
By: KC Ellingford
7/27/2020
Narrows Pitch
Ascending the beautiful and prominent Sentinel Rock the historic Steck-Salathé is one of the most classic climbs of North America. Over 5 days in the summer of 1950 two pioneers of Yosemite climbing, Allen Steck and John Salathe, completed the first ascent. This feat still amazes climbers 70 years later–especially as they struggle through the intimidating and steep mandatory off-width and chimney climbing.
The Steck-Salathé has been a goal of mine for years, so when Yosemite NPS biologist Sean Smith asked to do a climbing patrol on this route to check for peregrine falcon nesting activity, I was psyched! Earlier in the summer I went on a of couple peregrine surveys with Sean to understand more about falcons. During a survey of the Southwest Face of El Capitan we witnessed an adult peregrine interacting with their babies. Observing the colors, feathers, and size of the babies, Sean predicted they were about to fledge. Low and behold three days later I was on El Capitan watching one of the most beautiful natural phenomena I’ve witnessed in the wilderness: the mother peregrine was teaching her young how to fly and hunt. Watching the fledglings struggling to flutter their wings from ledge to ledge while the mom gracefully passed over them was breath taking. After witnessing that, I felt more connected to peregrine falcons. It reminded me of my niece learning to walk while her mom stood by her side. Now the idea of climbing the Steck-Salathé to investigate peregrines had even more value to me. Our goals for the climbing patrol were to see if the falcon babies had fledged, to inspect a recent rock fall, to gain area familiarization, and of course to send!
Peregrine Falcon’s
Peregrine Falcons are an amazing bird of prey. They fly up to 200 miles per hour and use this as a tactic to kill prey while
in flight! Peregrines are extremely territorial and can abandon their nests and eggs if they are encroached upon by humans or other perceived aggressors. In the 1940s and 1950s they almost went extinct due to the use of DDT insecticides. In Yosemite and other crags climbers played an important role in the recovery of peregrine populations: they would access cliffs to collect the falcon eggs from their eyrie (nest) and take them to wildlife biologists to incubate them in a lab. Climbers would then return the young to the eyries after they hatched. Climbing closures have given peregrines more chances to breed successfully. Overall climbers have followed these rules, but we have had a few cases of climber caused nest failures.
This season was the first time that a portion of the Sentinel was closed due to a new peregrine eyrie on the route Chouinard/Herbert (5.11c). New nesting sites can be less successful due to the unfamiliarity and inexperience of the adults. Sean had conducted multiple surveys looking for peregrine activity and saw a pattern that suggested that the falcons didn’t fledge. After seeing the potential for a nest failure from the valley floor, we decided to climb the Steck-Salathe’ to look for evidence of what had happened. At the start of pitch 13 there were signs of an owl’s roost: multiple pellets, white-wash, and a baby Peregrine’s feather. Seeing these signs, Sean and I thought it was likely that the baby falcons likely fell prey to the owls. After confirming the nest failure, Yosemite Park Management lifted the nesting closures on the Sentinel.
Rock Fall
Within the past two years the Sentinel has experienced multiple rockfalls. Pitch three of Steck-Salathé has two variations. Rock fall impacted the left variation, and you can still see loose rock and a lot of dirt. The right variation has one peculiar looking surfboard rock jutting out, but otherwise is clean, and straightforward. Another large rock fall happened on the east side of the Sentinel during the winter of 2018-19 affecting the area where the approach and decent trail join. The trail in the area is now braided, loose, and hard to read due to unstable dirt, jumbled rocks, and downed trees.
Climbing the Steck-Salathe’ with Sean was one of my favorite days on a mountain. All of the infamous pitches proved to be quite memorable, especially the narrows and Wilson overhang. I would highly recommend this route to climbers who are interested in experiencing a historical adventure. While climbing this route, think about all the earlier ascents that were made on pitons and nuts. After this climb, I have a deeper appreciation for Yosemite’s rich climbing history as well as the role climbers have played in the survival and continued sustainability of the Peregrine falcon species.
Nice work KC! Appreciate your efforts up there. Do you think it’s worth doing some trail delineation work on the approach?
Yes, with the popularity of this route. The trail can use some delineation and establishment.