SUMMARY
On June 8th, 2019, Chad and Ben started up Royal Arches (5.7 A0, Grade III). Chad had been climbing for 20 years, with two years of trad experience around the 5.7-5.8 level. Ben had four years of climbing experience, also with two years of trad climbing at the same level.
The team hiked to the base and started climbing around 9 a.m. The climb went well, and they reached the final anchors at 8:45 p.m. They then had the option of descending via the North Dome Gully or Royal Arches rappel route. The party opted to rappel and began the eighteen single-rope rappels back down to the valley floor.
Slip knot created in the rope
They were prepared with two headlamps, lightweight jackets, arm warmers, a basic first aid kit, two cell phones, and six liters of water for the day. At 10:30 pm, they reached the anchors on their fifth rappel. While pulling the rope to continue rappelling, it got stuck above them at the anchor. They now only had one end of the rope and steep, unprotected slab separated them from the anchor above. They chose not to climb the unprotected face with the remaining slack or ascend the rope.
Chad and Ben called for a rescue with one of their cell phones. Yosemite Search and Rescue was busy on another, more serious call so the pair spent the night at the anchor on a six inch ledge. The following morning, two members of Search and Rescue climbed Royal Arches and rappelled the route from above to access their rope. They found a giant slip knot that had been formed while pulling the rope and it had gotten stuck at the rap rings. The rescuers untied the slip knot and together, the four continued rappelling to the base.
- Mind the rope for knots. While one person pulls the rope from the preceding anchor, the other can mind the end of the rope for knots.
- Situational Awareness. Look at where the anchors are located, the terrain where the rope will run, and how the rope is running through the anchors. Make a plan and pull the rope in a direction and angle that will yield the cleanest fall.
- Be prepared. Chad and Ben were well prepared with layers, headlamps, enough water, and cell phones to call for help.