Accident Report: Leader Fall- Lembert Dome

SCENARIO 

On August 4, 2020, Tuolumne Search and Rescue responded to reports of a climber fall on Lembert Dome. Lynn Nguyen had fallen approximately 15-20 feet while leading the first pitch of Northwest Books (5.6). 

BACKGROUND

Lynn was new to traditional climbing but had been climbing indoors for approximately three years. On August 4th she was climbing with three others as two parties of two. Lynn was the least experienced of the four climbers and they thought that having preplaced gear for Lynn to clip would be a good introduction to trad-climbing. Their plan was to have one party go first and leave gear placements for Lynn to clip as she led.  According to Lynn, this would be her first trad lead and was told the pitch would be “sewn-up” and she wouldn’t have to worry about placing her own gear. She was given two cams to practice placing gear in between the preplaced gear.

THE ACCIDENT

Lynn noticed the leader of the first team pause in a section but dismissed it as the follower seemed to have no issues.  Lynn began leading the first pitch, clipping a bolt, followed by a piece of preplaced protection. Her next piece was approximately 10 feet away, after a layback section. Half way between the two pieces she found it to be more difficult than expected (presumably where the first climber hesitated). She tried to place the pieces she had on her harness, however neither of them fit. While stopped in this section her foot slipped and she fell. She impacted her tailbone a few feet below, flipped upside down, and impacted her head–tumbling about 15 feet before her rope stopped her fall. Her partner was able to lower her to the belay ledge. At this point, Lynn was experiencing pain in her low back and was unable to walk. 

THE RESCUE

After Lynn’s fall, the upper party rappelled from the top of pitch one to help. One member ran down to the road to flag down a park ranger. Meanwhile, Lynn was able to get out a 911 call and was informed that help was already on their way. Tuolumne Search and Rescue responded and during their assessment performed a focused spinal exam.  They found tingling in her toes and tenderness in her lumbar spine. Due to the likelihood and seriousness of a spinal injury she was put into a full body vacuum splint. This immobilized her during the litter carry-out to the Lembert Dome parking lot. The search and rescue team built an anchor and used a litter to lower her 60 feet over 4th class slabs. An ambulance was waiting at the Lembert Dome parking lot to transport her to Mammoth Hospital. Once evaluated at Mammoth Hospital, it was found she fractured her L1 (upper lumbar) and she was airlifted to Renown Regional Medical Center, a level II trauma center in Reno, Nevada.  Lynn is currently on a path to full recovery. 

TAKE AWAYS

Wear a helmet: This situation highlights the importance of wearing a  helmet. When Lynn fell she flipped upside down and cracked her helmet; the outcome could have been much worse without one. In addition, the use of a foam helmet protected her head from side and rear impact. Plastic helmets that lack foam on sides and rear are better for protecting you from objects from above, such as loose rock and ice, but less effective for absorbing the impact from a leader fall.  

Be honest with yourself (and your partners): Lynn was told that the first party would “sew up” the pitch and she would not need any other pieces to protect the pitch. Later on her friend clarified that she was “spooked” in that section, which is why she didn’t stop to place more gear. If that was communicated beforehand, Lynn could have made the decision to back down and this accident could have been prevented. 

Falls on low angle climbs can be more consequential: Many of the climbs in Tuolumne Meadows are slabby, polished, and have sparse protection. Climbers should be confident on the grade and style before leading these routes. Due to the low angle terrain, and the potential to hit ledges while falling, lead falls on “beginner” routes in Tuolumne can result in injury and should be taken seriously. 

Gym grades are not comparable to outdoor grades: Climbing outside often includes techniques not learned in the gym. Lynn mentioned not having much experience laybacking or with slab climbing. The grades do not always reflect the lack of gear, techniques required, or original (“old-school”) ratings.

Avoid using preplaced gear: Each climber will have a different idea of how much gear should be placed and where it is placed. Relying on other people’s gear placements should be avoided. Consider practicing placing gear on top rope and when ready to lead bring extra pieces of protection.