In recent years, Fifi Buttress in Yosemite Valley has become the playground of choice for local hard men and women, and people looking for a stepping stone towards routes like the Free Rider on El Capitan. But amongst the 5.12+ and 5.13 routes that reside on this imposing stone, “The Voyager” stands alone as a relatively moderate modern classic. Following a continuous system of beautiful cracks for 6 pitches, The Voyager clocks in at 5.11c and remains protectable from beginning to end. Established as recently as 2013 by prolific first ascensionist Dan McDevit and partner Ryan Kelly, the route stands as a testament to how much great rock may still remain unclimbed in Yosemite Valley.
Pitch 1. Photo: Eric Walden
The first pitch on its own would be worth the 30 minute approach from the Bridalveil Falls parking lot. A fantastic 5.11a finger and stemming corner, pitches like these truly are the reason that so many people love climbing in Yosemite. I won’t ruin it with a pitch by pitch break down of the whole route, but will say that for the granite crack climbing connoisseur, the third pitch “incinerator” corner (5.11c) is an all-time classic, and the final 100 foot hand crack is a fantastic reward for those who venture up the route. A (very hard feeling) 5.11c boulder problem does reside on the 4th pitch, but is very well bolted and easy to pull through on a quick draw if you’re like me and are horrible at bouldering!
Just as its neighbors could be considered good stepping stones for routes like the Free Rider, I feel that The Voyager is a great route to warm up on for a climb like the Rostrum. While it looks the same on paper, the nature of the climbing is much less sustained, and would be a great way for someone to gain experience on a Yosemite 5.11 multi pitch climb. Since it does not get sun until after 1 pm, it also can be a good way to avoid the heat on some of the rougher summer days we get around here.
Notes
- The route’s north facing aspect keeps it in the shade until around 1pm. Get an early start and enjoy the cool temps.
- A 70m rope is required as the first pitch/last rappel is a long one.
Thanks to Eric Walden for the pictures!