PAST
In the mid 1800’s Josiah Whitney, California state geologist from 1860 to 1874, declared that “no man would ever reach the summit of Half Dome”, that it was “perfectly inaccessible.” The majestic, towering dome of granite inspired all visitors of Yosemite Valley. It’s sheer face and towering presence in the valley beckoned to visionary mountaineers and climbers.
The first person to challenge Whitney’s perspective on the inaccessible nature of Half Dome was George Anderson, who drilled eye bolts into the blank but not very steep north slope of Half Dome. By standing on these eye bolts and drilling over and over again, Anderson reached the summit of the dome in 1875, the first human to do so. This began the rich history of climbing on Half Dome. It would take 71 years before climbers tried to summit Half Dome again. In 1946 the Southwest Face was climbed by John Salathe and Anton “Axe” Nelson in 20 hours with one night of uncomfortable standing on a ledge until finishing the route at first light. They placed 150 pitons, no bolts, and marked the first time climbers slept on a wall overnight to accomplish a climb. Fast-forward to 1957, 11 years later, and climbers are at it again, trying to climb the vast, steep and intimidating Northwest Face. Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas and Mike Sherrick made it to the top in a magnificent 5 day ascent, after a retreat the year before, they finally achieved their goal.
PRESENT
The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome has been an icon of achievement for Yosemite climbers since 1957. Climbers have put up many routes all over Half Dome using different techniques and technology. Every face has been climbed, but no route holds the lore and awe of the Northwest Face. It is a steep, beautiful line, offers incredible, safe free climbing, and has tremendous exposure. While approaching this climb, climbers walk under a steep face of sheer granite, gold and white rock streaked with black lichen. Looking closely, there are several white rock scars marking areas where the dome has lost parts of its face, shedding flakes through the process of exfoliation.
Around July 3rd, a major rock fall occurred that destroyed the last half of pitch 11 and all of pitch 12 from the historic line- the legacy that Royal Robbins and his team left for the next generations of climbers. This represents a huge loss of about 800 cubic meters of rock from that face. Thankfully no climbers were injured, though the route is significantly changed.
FUTURE
This rock fall is a reminder of the impermanence and continual evolution of stone. The ephemeral nature of mountains forces us to transform and adapt our own ways of exploring them. Old routes slowly change into variations of the classic and historic lines put up by the forefathers of rock climbing in Yosemite. Though technology has changed climbing gear, and modern styles of climbing and training have changed the way we approach new problems on climbs, there is still an echo from the past running through our minds.
The Regular Northwest Face will always be a part of our legacy as climbers in Yosemite, and a thoughtful new line will bring us through that new blank section of rock for the next several generations of climbing. Whoever accomplishes this feat will define how we climb Half Dome in the future, and hopefully we can trust those people to create a legacy equal to that of Royal Robbins and his team.
Interview with first ascentionist Jerry Gallwas
What was it like camping beneath Half Dome – far above the Valley with no one around – before embarking on the first ascent?
Serine, but we didn’t sleep very well in anticipation of the adventure above. There was plenty of water coming from the base of the Dome so no worries there.
Royal called me while I was studying for finals and said Warren Harding was returning to California from his two year stint in Alaska so we knew we had to move or he and Mark Powell would spend the summer working out the route.
Is that you in the pointed wool hat? In the picture below it looks like you are traversing from the initial lower angle pitches out right onto the steep wall below the bolt ladder, was it committing to move out onto that upper portion of the wall?
Yes, that’s my hat and you are correct about the location. Royal and I worked on the pitch leading to the Robbin’s Traverse for some time. There is a document on my recollections of the climb in the AAC library as well as photos and original documents. It is available on line.
I imagine you planned most of the route from the ground using spotting scopes. Before you made it to that section of the wall, was there a feeling in the group about what the chimneys might be like?
I have wished many times that we had planned and were very organized for the Half Dome adventure as has been stated by many writers but such was not the case. We had photos that Don Wilson and I had taken in 1954 and of course had seen many pictures of snow on the face during winter so knew there was a route but we were living more on faith than knowledge. We had too much rope and not enough water. The Salathe “standard” for real climbers was a quart per man per day and that is what we had. I had hard stools for a week after we finished the climb. Little water, a few nuts and dates, then you don’t need toilet paper! Had I planned better, I would have taken my camera but didn’t to save weight; where was my head!? Royal called me while I was studying for finals and said Warren Harding was returning to California from his two year stint in Alaska so we knew we had to move or he and Mark Powell would spend the summer working out the route. Royal, Mike, and I only had a one week window because of work obligations.
Was there any significant rock fall while on the route? I heard that the “Psyche flake” used to be a crux section but is no longer there.
I don’t remember the flake system at this point in my life and I have no recollection of rock fall but on the third night we bivouaced at the base of a large, tall flake that sounded like a watermelon when you slapped it. During the middle of the night, someone dropped a 35mm aluminum film canister from the top and it gave us an eerie feeling to realize how vulnerable we were. Wayne Merry had helped us haul our gear to the notch then he went onto put a sign at the base of the cables alerting people not to drop rocks as there were climbers on the face. I’m sure someone was just having fun knowing we would hear the canister as it found its way down the face.
Do you feel emotionally attached to the route? How does it feel to have such a classic route change significantly over time?
I’ve always had an emotional attachment to the NW Face as I do for the Lost Arrow, the Ansel Adams’ photo of Salathe and Nelson on top was my inspiration for climbing. That the NW Face has become such a popular route done by a few in a couple of hours still stuns me. Images of Dean and Alex soloing without use of protection are beyond my grasp. I was the first to cross Thank God Ledge but I had a belay and it was still breathtaking to say the least. The photos of Alex in a red shirt standing there without a rope on the cover of National Geographic and Dean doing a lay-back on the Zig Zags with a rope over his shoulder are images drilled into my mind.
The photos of Alex in a red shirt standing there without a rope on the cover of National Geographic and Dean doing a lay-back on the Zig Zags with a rope over his shoulder are images drilled into my mind.