Backcountry Climbing – The Pharaoh

Approximately 8 percent of Yosemite National Park is accessible by road.  Though the iconic Valley and Tuolumne Meadows boast grand adventure and mystique, I have always wondered what formations lie in the hinterlands of the park.  Working as a Wilderness Ranger I had the opportunity to patrol through the granite canyons and meadows that come off the crest of the northern part of the park. These backpacking trips left seeds of interest and imagination of what it would be like to climb on those walls.

There is a guidebook for those who want to explore the other 92 percent of the park, as well as the entire Sierra Nevada mountain range, Peaks, Passes, and Trails by R.J. Secor.  This book is a breath of crisp air in the world of ultra-detailed modern topos, as it is often devoid of any information besides the name, location and approximate grade of the route. It has just enough information to get you out there, leaving the rest up to the climber.  As one flips through the the Secor guide, fondly referred to as the climbers bible of the Sierra, she or he can not help but stop and wonder what it would be like to climb the Pharaoh.

“What are you doin’ with that rope?  You boys mountain climbing?” Asked a grizzled outdoorsman on his annual trip with his brother.
“Yes sir,” we replied in unison, “just looking for a little adventure.”

“This major rock formation is located in the lower part of Matterhorn Canyon, and features a freestanding summit.  Meadow Blaster IV 5.11b.  First ascent Alan Swanson and Urmas Franosch.  This route ascends the north west face of the Pharaoh.  Nine pitches of sustained climbing up beautiful cracks with Tuolumne quality rock, sprinkled with knobs.”

With these few guiding words echoing in our minds, my friend Dave and I pick a date.  We get our permit, bear canister, and gear together to adventure deep into Yosemite’s North Country.

Dave and I sat down at the picnic table and looked at the map. We planned to camp at Miller Lake about 15 miles out on the Pacific Crest Trail from Virginia Lakes.  Miller lake sits about a half a mile from the summit of the formation.  We discovered that the best way to access the route would be descending the north side of the formation down 4th class terrain, which saves about 3 miles of hiking via the PCT.  We decided to camp on top, descend to the base and navigate the sustained cracks back to our bear canister full of safeguarded goodies.

Hiking into the park from Virginia Lakes we pass glistening alpine lakes and pristine meadows, a seemingly unaltered expanse except for the two foot wide trail that passes beneath our feet.  As we come closer to the Sawtooth Range, the canyons become larger than life.  Approaching Miller Lake we met the first of many backpackers enjoying the area.  While talking to these folks about our adventures many were bewildered about the ropes and helmets strapped to the outside of our bags. “What are you doin’ with that rope?  You boys mountain climbing?” Asked a grizzled outdoorsman on his annual trip with his brother.

“Yes sir,” we replied in unison, “just looking for a little adventure.”

We set down our packs and went for a dip.  It was early still so we wandered to the edge of the canyon to find our descent to the base of the climb.  From here we were greeted with a view unlike anything we had seen before.  An expanse of God’s country that strikes the heart and burns an image into the soul, leaving the viewer speechless and humbled. As the sun sets, we discuss our trepidus excitement, starlit skies softly envelope our world.

Awakening in the dawn of the new day.  Tea, oatmeal and banana bread starts us on our adventure.  In a little under two hours we are at the base of the formation.  The lower pitches have many options and we pick the start that looks the most fun.  Within three or four pitches we are funneled to a large ledge below the striking headwall.  To our right is a beautiful straight in splitter that cuts through the slick golden granite.  This is an ultra classic looking line that was freed at 5.12 by Steve Schnider in the early 2000’s.  Just to the left is a steep system of layback cracks and corners.  This seems like the only mortal line up the headwall, so we give it a go.  We are rewarded with engaging climbing from here to the top passing roofs, corners, splitters, flakes and knobs.  Not a sign of chalk, pin scar, or tat.

This seems like the only mortal line up the headwall, so we give it a go.  We are rewarded with engaging climbing from here to the top passing roofs, corners, splitters, flakes and knobs.  Not a sign of chalk, pin scar, or tat.

As we approach the summit, clouds that had been providing us with shade open up for a quick summer sierra shower.  Standing on the summit the clouds add to the majesty and dimension of this place.

We return to camp to refuel and prepare for the walk home—Dave has to be in the Valley by the morning for work.  The sun sets and the moon rises, the landscapes lose their color and we see this place in a new way.  Time for reflection is provided on our journey out, as we silently retrace our steps back to the road then home to that paved eight percent of Yosemite.

A few notes on Wilderness travel:

A Wilderness permit and bear canister are required for any overnight travel in Yosemite National Park.  Whether you plan to camp near Matthest Crest, Mt Starr King, Mt Conness, Bath Mountain, or any other of the amazing wilderness climbing venues that the park holds, it is important to follow these few simple steps so that you can help to protect these sacred places.

The wilderness permit system was established as a way to mitigate issues of over use in the wilderness thus helping to preserve the area for generations to come.  This system also protects the experience of the adventurer by ensuring that there are opportunities for solitude.  Though this step may seem like a chore and an unnecessary struggle, it is important.  Wilderness permits are issued as early as 11am one day in advance. I recommend coming in some time in the afternoon rather than right at eleven unless you are trying to get a permit to hike towards Cathedral/Matthest, or Little Yosemite Valley.  If you are trying to climb anywhere else in the park you should have little issue getting a permit.  There are often multiple ways to access Wilderness routes.  Explain to the Rangers what you would like to climb and they may be able to trouble shoot a way to get you out there, except of course for LYV!

By checking in with the folks at the wilderness center you will be able to get up to date information on the area such as current trail closures, water resources and the like. There, you will also be able to rent a bear canister if you do not have your own.  Though a bear canister seems excessive to carry along with all your climbing gear, it is simply the right thing to do.  The requirement of bear cans has come about because it is the only effective way to keep human food out of the hands of Yosemite’s wild life.  This is essential in a place like Yosemite National Park that sees such a large number of wilderness users every year.  If everyone works together to keep their food away from the animals we can help to re-naturalize the habituated wildlife.