Harding on first pitches of The Nose, 1957 Source: Yosemite Climbing Association
2018 marks the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan by vertical pioneers Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore. Scaling the sheer 3,000 foot face was thought impossible before their revolutionary ascent. As no wall of El Capitan’s difficulty or length had ever been attempted anywhere on Earth before, Harding and team had to overcome many challenges to reach the summit. They endured 45 days on the wall over the course of 1957-1958 and established what is today considered one of the greatest rock climbs of all time.
The first ascent team had to invent their way up the wall. Cracks too large for standard climbing gear of the day necessitated creating pitons worthy of the challenge. Bill “Dolt” Feuerer chopped the cast-iron legs from an old stove found in a dump to create larger pitons. These makeshift pitons were the namesake of the famous “Stoveleg Cracks” that climbers to this day idolize as some of the finest climbing on the route.
Modern climbers perhaps take for granted equipment and techniques not available in the days of the first ascent. Efficient pulleys and jumars, as well as modern techniques of hauling loads and ascending ropes, were not used or invented yet. Warren Harding and team repeatedly ascended thousands of feet of rope using friction hitches, and with giant loads tied to their harnesses. Herculean effort was necessary to bring meager rations and gear up the wall. Modern climbers should also imagine climbing The Nose stripped of modern camming devices, instead having to rely solely on pitons for protection.
The historic first ascent required incredible dedication on the part of Warren Harding and his team. The adventurous nature of The Nose’s first ascent is perhaps best exemplified by Harding’s final fourteen hour push through the night to achieve the summit. That episode is one of the greatest legends in Yosemite climbing.
“As I hammered in the last bolt and staggered over the rim, it was not at all clear to me who was the conqueror and who was the conquered. I do recall that El Cap seemed to be in much better condition than I was.” — Warren Harding
Harding, FA of The Nose, 1957
Source: Yosemite Climbing Association
Present day climbers travel from around the world to climb on The Nose. Modern teams of capable and experienced climbers typically take three to five days to ascend the route. However, elite climbers commonly climb the route in under one day, a feat first accomplished in 1975 by Jim Bridwell, John Long, and Billy Westbay. Climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell brought the route’s speed record to a blistering 1:58 just this year, an astounding change from the 45 day first ascent. The route was first free climbed in 1992 by climbing legend Lynn Hill at a grade of 5.14a. It is a profoundly difficult route to free climb and has been repeated by few climbers since.
As The Nose continues to evolve, it is important to remember the revolutionary origins of the route. The route’s first ascent is a story of pioneers that took to the intimidating face of El Capitan to redefine possibility. They struck forward into the unknown and emerged as climbing legends. The Nose is more than the great climb enjoyed annually by hundreds of climbers. It stands a testament to the tenacity, ingenuity, and bravery of early Yosemite climbers.